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From Darke Zion ("Ways of Zion") by Mose ben Israel Naftali Porjes (Mose Präger)
The booklet (Bodleian Library, Oppenheim Collection 267 Quart) appeared in 4° with a Hebrew and Yiddish title page, with no place of publication (probably Frankfurt am Main), in 1650; it is otherwise written entirely in Yiddish (cf. Catalogus Bodleianus, p. 487, no. 3226, and Addenda). It begins: « Listen to me, men and women: this is what Mosche Präger the writer wishes enk [Old German for « you »] to know. »
Gate (Section) I — On the journey to the Holy Land. The section begins (folio 2) with a note on currencies and measures: where « Thaler » is mentioned, a Löwenthaler is meant; a rotl, as a weight, is 5 German pounds, and as a measure 1½ Prague pints (Pinte, Nössel). A rotl has 12 ounces, an ounce 75 dirhem. A para is a silver coin, three of which equal two Batzen; a Löwenthaler has 30 paras.
In a wagon for three persons, the fare from Ofen (Buda) to Belgrade is 6 thalers; the journey takes 9 days' marches. From Belgrade to Sofia, three persons also pay 6 thalers, the same again from Sofia to Adrianople, and likewise from Adrianople to Constantinople. The traveller does best to take the opportunity to ride straight through from Ofen, so as not to need extra hauls (Zufuhren, written separated as is often the case in Yiddish) along the way.
Another route, from Adrianople to the community of Lesser Rhodes (Turkish), can be done by three persons for 4 thalers.
From Vienna to Sofia, the « 4 Hungarian 3-Kreuzer » coin is in use (the text has a misprint; read Tselm, « image », for « Kreuz » with the German diminutive ending — still used today by uneducated Jews in southern Germany and Austria). One coin is called the « Spanish 80-Kreuzer », equal to 80 Polish groschen; these pass for one Reichsthaler, in Jerusalem too. The Löwenthaler is just as good along the way as in Jerusalem. From Constantinople onward and farther into Turkey, the Reichsthaler does not pass quite as well as « in these countries, even in Jerusalem ».
The old coins called alte Dreier in Poland are worth, all along the route to Jerusalem, 13½ to one Reichsthaler — that is, one such Dreier is 6 aspers, and 80 aspers make a Reichsthaler. New x (?) are worth 5 to one Reichsthaler as far as Belgrade. All kinds of ducats are worth 10 Kreuzer less along the way than in « these countries ». Venetian ducats or zechinos pass along the way as in « these countries », but must be of full weight.
In Jerusalem a zechino is worth 2½ Löwenthaler. A Realthaler is worth everywhere, including Jerusalem, the same as one Reichsthaler.
In Jerusalem there is a silver coin, the para, struck in Egypt. In Greater Rhodes one gets 33 paras for a Löwenthaler, in Jerusalem 30 for a Reichsthaler.
Clothing should be bought in Ofen (Buda). In the month of Av (August) one should be in Constantinople, since in Elul (September) many ships sail from there, so that one can travel cheaply and, by the nature of things, be safe from robbers.
Another route goes from Lemberg (so written), beginning in Iyyar (May) with a caravan of merchants, with which one signs up. « There are some good people engaged on it. »
From Constantinople to Jerusalem there are two ways: either by water from Constantinople itself, or from Lesser Rhodes. Each person pays as far as Greater Rhodes 1½ thalers. One should not engage passage to Mizrayim (Egypt?), which lies « beyond Jerusalem », etc.
In Greater Rhodes many persons together hire a ship which has 25 large oars and is entirely safe both from robbers and from bad weather, hugs the coast, and is only once on the open sea, by day and by night.
At departure from Greater Rhodes each person pays a tax or toll of 1/3 Löwenthaler to the captain; including the crew, 4 Löwenthaler are paid to Jaffa, which is half a day's march from Jerusalem. With a fair wind the voyage from Greater Rhodes to Jaffa takes six days. On landing, each must pay 10 (!) Löwenthaler in tax, and one Löwenthaler to the « Compagnie » (?), which rides along as far as Jerusalem. In return, the tax-collector gives each person a donkey to ride to Jerusalem.
Customs must be paid on anything that can be called merchandise, for which reason linen cloth should be cut into pieces. It is always better to settle with the customs officer if one can, so that he does not « visit » (i.e., search) and one's goods be plundered. At the gate of Jerusalem, one must wait for the broker and pays two Löwenthaler tax.
After all this, it turns out that the journey from Vienna to Jerusalem requires 50 Reichsthaler; from Lemberg, even more. The land journey from Constantinople to Jerusalem takes 7 weeks, a distance of 350 German miles. From Constantinople one crosses over to Scutari, where the caravan assembles. The journey is made on mules. Each person carries 2 sacks weighing one German hundredweight as baggage. From there to Jerusalem at least 33 Löwenthaler are needed (including taxes), apart from food and other miscellaneous expenses, as on any journey.
Not everyone can endure such riding, especially women, since one must keep one's feet « lying flat, and one's back gives out » for want of a backrest. Therefore women should have a sedan-chair or a chair made for them in Constantinople, which is then strapped onto the donkey. This costs more, however, because someone must then lead the animal. The Jewish communities along the way to Jerusalem are: Angaria, Haleb (i.e. the well-known designation for Aleppo), Hama, Damascus.
Most caravans do not go via Angaria and Aleppo, but directly to Hama and Damascus. From Damascus one can, if one wishes, go to Safed and Sichem (Nablus), and from there to Jerusalem; or from Damascus directly to Sichem. The cost is the same, except that at Safed each person must pay 2 Löwenthaler tax — but one can pray at many graves of the pious.
The total cost of the overland journey from Vienna or Lemberg to Jerusalem therefore comes to 100 Reichsthaler.
One should not bring much silver and gold, even if one is rich, for it « attracts much attention ». Gold, moreover, is cheaper in Jerusalem than outside the country. Nor should one bring fine furs (linings), for the sake of appearance. Spices are cheaper in Jerusalem; only mace is rarely seen. Saffron is cheap and not very good — a German pound costs 6 Kreuzer.
In an ordinary year, a rotl of grapes costs 2 Kreuzer; from this one obtains ½ rotl of wine, i.e. 3 Prague Seidel, or one Frankfurt Maaß.
Those who live in the courtyard of the Sanctuary, where the synagogue and the two houses of study are located, live cramped and have little water; in return, they can attend the morning prayer in good time, since the courtyard is closed after the evening prayer and is opened only at daybreak — and is therefore inaccessible to others.
Every head of a family, even a poor man with no house of his own, must pay 3 Löwenthaler of kharadsch (poll-tax), half in summer, half in winter. All kinds of food and drink are available in Jerusalem, but little money. The rich man finds everything cheap; the poor man goes without (« is shy of asking ») more than anywhere else in the world, for the community is heavily in debt, particularly since the great devastation in Poland [1648], from where several thousand used to come yearly.
Gate II — On Prayer. Near the beginning, and on folio 7b, the author cites what he heard from his brother Gutmann Porjes [this name still occurs today in Prague as the family name Porges]. Only a few details of this section need be mentioned here. The worshippers don the prayer-shawl (tallit) and phylacteries (tefillin) for the afternoon prayer also; penitential prayers are recited as in the morning. During the reading of the Torah, no one may speak a single word aloud.
(Folio 7) On the festival of Simchat Torah (« Rejoicing of the Law »), the synagogue is hung with curtains, etc.: « This is surely pleasing to God and all the archangels. »
On folio 8, the author speaks of a Gutachten (legal opinion) that his kinsman, « who was a Nasi (prince, head) in Palestine, Yeshayahu Halevi Horowitz » (originating from Horovice in Bohemia), formerly chief rabbi of Prague, sent out from Palestine. In it many citations from the Talmud and Midrash were brought together, and it was demonstrated that the poor of Palestine are everywhere to be regarded as « the poor of your city » (i.e. local poor). The author has heard a similar interpretation in the name of Isaac Cohen, « who made the German Chumash », son-in-law of Hirsch A. Löb.
Gate III (folio 9) — Gate of Instruction. Pious women stand outside the house of study to listen to the studying, and they read German prayers. After the evening prayer, all members of the school study the Mishnah. — Not far from the cemetery there are two holes in a rock; it is said that one of them is the entrance to Gehinnom (the ancient notion of entrances to the underworld can be traced among the Jews back to the Talmud; see the references in the Hebräische Bibliographie 1864, p. 105, where « Menachem » Porges is erroneously printed for Mose). At the tomb of Rachel one prays, preaches, dances around, eats and drinks. — Whoever is to be called up to the Torah receives beforehand a silver plaque.
Gate IV — Gate of Remembrance. The lighting of lights in memory of the deceased, etc.
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